Today we had our Puja. A Puja is a religious ceremony to appease the deity believed in Tibetan Buddhism, which includes an element of animism, to reside in the mountains. The reason appeasement is necessary is that we mountaineers and in particular our ice axes and crampons, are considered 'unclean' and therefore to be defiling holy ground whenever we climb. Thus the objective of this ceremony was twofold. To give thanks for the safety we have been afforded on past climbs, and to ask forgiveness for past and any future 'pollution' of sacred ground.
The Puja started just after 9 o'clock. It was based around the chorten a few metres in front of our mess tent. This was a rectangular dry stone structure roughly 1m wide, 1m high and 2m long with a hole in the top to accept a thick pole, on a low stone plinth. Prior to the start of the event the Sherpas had prepared the chorten. This entailed a number of actions. First, placing mats on the ground along the side of the chorten facing away from Everest such that when the Llama and others took their places on these they would face the mountain. Second, hanging a richly-decorated floral cloth down the chorten and placing a tablecloth on the chorten plinth in front of the mats and on this placing plates of tsampa, rice, candles, and various religious artefacts. Third, preparing a flagpole with 3 strings of prayer flags, wrapping other flags and kata scarves around the top 2m or so of the pole and fixing a sprig of juniper to the very top. This structure was leant against the chorten. Fourth, placing nearby a wide selection of food and drink, including the following: beer, wine, coke, lemonade, prawn crackers, fruit and biscuits.
When we arrived we placed our 'sharps' (crampons and ice axes) against one of the chorten's short sides, then moved seats from the mess tent to the vicinity of the chorten and took our places. Gradually the Sherpas took their seats behind the mats.
A small fire of juniper was lit to one side of the chorten and when the Llama arrived he added his own accoutrements to the tablecloth. These included an ornate hand bell, an ornate metal artefact that from a distance resembled 2 eggs joined in the manner of a dumb-bell, a small (10cm diameter) green double-sided drum mounted on a wooden handle with a swinging ball. When twizzled between thumb and forefinger the ball repeatedly hit the drum on alternate sides.
The Llama was in his late 30's, dressed in a thick deep maroon robe with a red and cream mantle. He was deeply tanned with long black hair in a pony tail and wore gold rimmed spectacles.
Once he had set up his items on the tablecloth he sat cross-legged on the mat provided and began chanting in a deep voice, head slightly bowed. The words were spoken very quickly yet rhythmically and he seemed to refer to a small booklet in his lap. Periodically he would ring the bell, always held in his left hand, or twizzle the drum.
After a while, at about 9:30, our Sherpa chef served black and white tea for everyone. The Llama had a drink too, taking a break from his chant. It seemed to me that this signalled the end of the first stage of the Puja.
After 5 minutes the Llama continued. As before he held the bell in his left hand but with his right tossed rice into the air. This was signal for the Sherpa team to erect the 12ft pole festooned with prayer flags and kaya scarves in the centre of the chorten. The pole was wedged ram-rod straight, sprig of juniper proudly atop the pole, while the 3x 10m lines of prayer flags were run out to their full length and firmly secured under rocks. As if on cue the wind rose and the red, blue, white, yellow and green flags, each around 25cm square, danced in the morning sunshine as the wind carried our prayers to the mountain. The Llama nodded in clear approval and redoubled the strength of his chanting and ringing, all the time looking heavenwards and throwing rice with energy and considerable panache. It appeared to me that the Llama's demeanour indicated great satisfaction with proceedings and that our entreaties had been accepted by the mountain deity.
In the silence that followed, a silence broken only occasionally by the joyful fluttering of prayer flags, we were all asked to stand. At around 10:00 to the increasing volume of renewed chanting, this time more melodious than previously, we were all given a small handful of rice. This was to be cupped in the left hand, supported by the right. After around 5 mins a crescendo was reached and our rice was thrown 3 times high towards the flagpole with an enthusiastic call of 'soooo' (health) with each cast. At the chorten liquid from a metal vessel was also cast by the Llama.
Immediately the chanting and drumming restarted in an upbeat style while at the same time some of the Sherpas assisting the Llama prepared a selection of food from the tablecloth. This was placed on trays for those seated un-shod close to the Llama. For other attendees food was brought round on big trays; pomegranate, orange, apple, tsampa cake, chocolate bars, and biscuits were all offered by happy smiling Sherpas and accepted gratefully by we climbers, always with a bow of the head and a heartfelt 'danyabad' (thank you).
While everyone was eating the Llama put away the tools of his trade. Two scripture books were carefully, even lovingly, wrapped in red cloth and secured with a golden cord. The handbell and 'double egg' were each placed into little blue and gold bags with gold drawstrings. The drum, or perhaps on reflection 'small tambourine' might be a better description although it's sound was more drum-like, was likewise placed carefully in a draw cord bag. Then the whole ensemble put in a red duffle.
With the Llama apparently packed up, and drinks of both alcoholic and soft nature being served, one might be forgiven for thinking the Puja was over. But no; there were two important elements remaining. Each attendee was offered, in turn, a small cup of strong liquor. I don't believe the brand was important but in fact it was Johnny Walker Red Label whiskey. This was to be received with due ritual, a bow and a steepling of fingers, before being accepted and enthusiastically tipped into our mouths, before returning the empty cup with a sincere 'danyabad'.
Once everyone had taken this drink (a sacrament perhaps?) The Llama restarted chanting for a few mins, without the bell or drum accompaniment. Then the Llama turned to his right, facing along the mat that had previously been sat upon. By now it was empty and one by one everyone approached the Llama on their knees, chorten to their right to receive his blessing and make a small donation to his work.
On this occasion we all had the pale cream kata scarves already. So the procedure was as follows. Prior to approaching the Llama we held our kata scarves in our hands, donation secreted in its folds. When our turn came we would approach the other end of the mat from the Llama, descend to our knees, and then shuffle in ungainly fashion toward him. Stopping just in front of him we would bow our head and proffer the scarf. The Llama then deftly removed the donation, depositing it in a yellow draw cord bag to his left, before placing the kata scarf back around our neck. He then drew from within his robe a golden knotted cord, blessed by the Dalai Llama himself, and tied it around our neck to bring good luck. Each then bowed to the other, hands together, before the climber or Sherpa made as dignified rearward shuffle as possible towards the end of the mat before standing and returning to their place.
Once everyone had received their blessing the Llama picked up his red duffle, and the yellow draw cord bag, he placed both in an orange and black rucksack. After a final bow to the assembled congregation, which we returned, he slipped the rucksack on his back and headed off on trainer-clad feet off to his tent elsewhere in base camp.
The Puja had been declared a great success and those remaining chatted in warm sunshine for the remainder of the morning.