Today the sun didn't shine. For the first time since we arrived at base camp the usual pattern of hot sunshine in the morning followed by cloud at midday and cold snowy or cloudy afternoons was broken in that there was no morning sunshine. Thus the weather reflected the mood of base camp: cold and sombre. As a mark of respect there was to be no movement onto the ice today. Indeed this was subsequently extended to a period of 4 days. In light of this agreement, after a breakfast of bacon and eggs on toast we headed out of base camp passing as we did so the helipad on which were several people waiting for the helicopter. After 5 minutes or so it arrived and those needing treatment over and above that administered locally were taken on board and then down the valley to hospital. This was not the first flight of the day.
On leaving camp we headed for the lateral moraine which leads after an hour or so's walk to Gorak Shep. At this time however we crossed that path and headed up the other side as our target was the advanced base camp used for attemps on the summit of Pumo Ri. In Nepalese Pumo Ri means 'Daughter Mountain' and was named after Sir Edmund Hillary's daughter who lost her life in an aircraft accident in Kathmandu. Pumo Ri is a beautiful triangular-summited mountain of over 7000m and so well beyond our reach as an acclimatisation climb; thus our target was the climbers advance base camp at around 5600m.
The climb was fairly steep up loose gravel interspersed with rock and scrubby vegetation. As we gained height the wind increased and the temperature fell necessitating extra layers being added and hats being pulled low. As we neared the camp all vegetation disappeared along with any semblance of a track and for the final 50m or so we were scrambling up a granite chute or over loose shattered rocks. The view from the camp was glorious with un impeded vistas up and down the valley. In particular we could see into the Western Cwm, above the ice fall.
Due to the cold it wasn't long before we headed down but instead of going back yo our camp we turned right at the lateral moraine and headed for Gorak Shep and the wonders of wi-fi and 3G as several of us has not had any connectivity for 5 or 6 days, as you know.
Once at the Internet cafe the customary chat and banter gave way to fierce concentration over various phones and I-stuff as days-old messages from home (and the occasional bill) flooded our screens. I spent much time on instant messaging with Clare and Vikki my daughter, including some 'selfie' exchanges. I also managed to upload the backlog of blogs. While of course the most recent was very sad indeed I was still relieved to be able to send it and give a first-hand account of what had transpired.
Little did we notice at first that the clouds had lowered, the skies become leaden, and it was snowing. We were prepared for this of course but nonetheless one by one we fore sake the warmth and conviviality of the cafe, and the copious quantities of lemon ginger tea consumed, and headed back to camp. While some walked in pairs most walked alone along the rocky, now very snowy and slippery track atop the moraine. Although we were mostly walking individually it was rare not to be able to see the person in front or behind. Periodic waves of a glove encased, trekking pole clasping, fist in either direction maintained the group contact with the simple symbolic gesture meaning 'ok?'. To which the same gesture returned meant 'fine thanks - you?'. And then we would return to the task in hand: don't slip; at all costs don't twist an ankle or worse, while bending our hooded heads into the chilly snowy wind.
Several of us stopped on the way into camp to investigate a new facility for getting wi-fi comms out of camp. Only time will tell if it works or whether another trek to Gorak Shep will be needed. If you read this on Easter Sunday then you will know it works......
Reaching camp at just before 6 we were just in time for dinner of rice, fried mixed vegetables, meat (probably buffalo) and a dessert of pomegranate. While reflecting on an unexpectedly good day our thoughts and conversation nevertheless returned to the tragedy of Friday 18th and will do so for many days to come.