Monday saw us reach base camp and you will know by now that there was no possibility of publishing yesterday's blog any sooner due to continuing lack of wi-fi or 3G.
Leaving Lobuche at about 8 in the morning we headed along the moraine to Gorak Shep and the going was rough from the start. While the pathway could be discerned without difficulty we were rarely following a path as such, rather a scuffed easy rocky scramble alternating with more routine rocky tracks. The route undulated steeply upwards and then down and was mainly rocky. The warm early morning sunshine soon gave way to low cloud and a stiff very cold wind. People coming the other way told of temperatures in the region of -15°C overnight in base camp. As the temperature dropped additional layers of clothing were added. However such was the roughness and in places steepness of the route that the effort needed to make progress could cause significant perspiration. So it was slow. Very slow. Both because we needed to go slow to avoid overheating (and then chilling) and because in places it was single file only and overtaking was impossible.
After about 2 hours we reached the tiny settlement of Gorak Shep where we stopped for an early lunch. As it was pointless pressing ahead as the guys in base camp wouldn't be expecting us until mid afternoon we turned this into quite a long early lunch.
Eventually moving off at about 12:00 we had a final 2 hours to base camp with no improvement in the weather and continued deterioration of the path. As we neared the end if the line for the trekkers the cloud came down and the snow started spoiling the view for those only going as far as base camp before retracing their steps to Lobuche or beyond. We climbers weaved our way through the crowd and yaks and proceeded through snow and on slippery rock into base camp, feeling not a little proud to do so.
Base camp is not a single 'camp' but many camps, each established by a climbing team or commercial operator, and the camp area stretches several hundred metres. It was a gods 40 minutes or so after leaving the 'entrance' that we located our particular base camp.
The camp comprises a small cluster of large frame tents used for food storage and preparation, Sherpa accommodation, and the climbers' mess tent. Around these are the smaller dome tents where the climbers sleep. However, suspend all preconceptions of a camping ground. Our base camp (as are those of other groups) makes the best use possible of a very unforgiving terrain. The expression 'hills and hollows' might be a good place to start. The hills are rocky mounds up to 10ft high between which are equally rocky hollows some of which have pathways between. The whole area alternates between being snow covered or frozen and dry but slippery, or wet after a thaw when many of the hollows become treacherous waterways. The waterways then freeze overnight. It is in amongst these hills that the climbers' tents are perched on little individual terraces fashioned over the years. In other circumstances this might be a camp from hell, but we are here for a reason and in any case this is normal; the base camp for Cho Oyu last year was no different. The climbers' tents are much larger than really needed and are provided with a mattress so can be made quite comfortable. The mess tent is a good 3m x 6m with light coloured walls, a high roof, and storm proof door ways. With a tough-wearing carpet, electric lighting and a gas heater is is cozy, and the long centrally placed table and chairs to each side made this a comfortable place to meet and eat. The atmosphere is always convivial and when the cooks appear with freshly prepared meals the mess tent really is the place to be. We even have a sit-down loo perched over a 'receptacle' rather than the more customary stand-up long-drop, although as the nights are well below freezing it is best not to linger.
Dinner on our first evening was taken with a few friends and family who had joined some climbers on the trek to base camp. While sad that the following morning there would be partings to be made the dinner was a jolly affair starting with hot savoury popcorn and a main course of rice, mixed vegetables and meat. Dessert was sliced apple and oranges, particularly welcome as this was the first fruit for several days. For those fed if of references to fried egg you will be delighted to know there were none. We had those for breakfast the following day! On the table in addition were various sauces and jars of olives, biscuits, and a range of teas and coffee.
At about 8:30 people drifted off to bed through the snow trying desperately not to slip on icy rock, clutching their water bottles filled with hot water. These make excellent sleeping bag heaters and in the morning remain unfrozen for drinking. With a warmed good quality sleeping bag, some thermal clothing and socks, and a warm hat pulled low, there is no better sleep to be had.